Reviews

Blue Supreme: back into the blue

After our review of Blue Supreme’s beer selection a few weeks back, the restaurant got in touch to tell us about their food menu, of which they are quite rightly very proud.

We rocked up on a chilly Tuesday night to see what they were talking about. It was immediately clear why they were so eager to show off the food. The plating is exquisite, but not remotely fussy while their flavours and pairings are intelligent but never clever-for-its-own-sake.



We kicked things off with a snow pea, pancetta, mint and fiore sardo salad. The beautifully presented dish had an aroma of fresh-cut grass, instantly conjuring mental images of the summertime and perfectly matching the zesty taste of our glass of Simplex from Brouwerij De Ranke. Alongside the salad came a Lowcountry cornbread (the chef explained how the Low Countries style is served in a skillet, unlike the larger ‘Yankee’ cornbread). This was served with smoked butter, although the cornbread is buttery enough that the extra touch was hardly necessary.


Next up came a plate of soft scrambled eggs with salmon roe and prosciutto. This dish was a perfect balance, with the saltiness from the roe and creaminess from the egg.

At this point we looked around and noticed that not a single diner was looking at their phone - when was the last time you saw that happen? Instead, the place was abuzz with animated conversation and good music, with the passionate and well-informed staff circulating casually among diners seated along the big communal table or nestled at intimate window seats. The whole welcoming vibe of the place is totally in-keeping with the food.

And things just kept getting better: next to arrive at the table was the duck burger with fennel, pomegranate and horseradish; dark, tender and juicy. We washed the burger down with another of Brouwerij De Ranke’s beers, Kriek, a brew with a sour fruitiness that comes from being fermented with cherries. A perfect match for the duck.

Blue Supreme’s menu is described as ‘constantly evolving,’ all based around in-season produce. Really, it’s just how we would traditionally cook at home, if we were all really imaginative and innovative chefs. New Zealand cherries, we learn, are in season for just two more weeks. So, for dessert we were treated to a cherry cobbler. And as they’re all about the beer here, this was accompanied by beer ice cream. Beer ice cream is a tough feat to pull off; too often it ends up too mild with little or no beer flavour, or with too much oomph, tasting like a pub carpet. We’re happy to report that this particular beer ice cream is spot on.

Before we could head home, we were served an extra dessert of cookies and milk. How homely is that? The cookies were deliberately underbaked; soft and gooey inside, and accompanied by a glass of creamy buttermilk which was flavoured with fresh mint. Too good.

We’ve been to traditional pubs where they enforce a no-phones rule to preserve an atmosphere of intimacy and community. We’ve been to posh member’s clubs where they have a no-phones policy to create a sense of refinement. But it’s rare to find a dining experience so absorbing that no such policy is necessary. Perhaps this friendly little neighbourhood joint is a sign that Upper Lascar Row is turning into one of the city’s best destinations for contemporary quality dining.

Restaurant Details
Blue Supreme, 21 Tung St, Sheung Wan
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